Sustainable Cosmetics: An Examination of Green Chemistry and Material Innovation

Green chemistry and material science are driving significant advancements in the cosmetics industry, making it possible to satisfy increasing consumer demand for sustainable products. This article examines the scientific underpinnings and innovative applications shaping this dynamic field.

Introduction

To truly appreciate the evolving landscape of sustainable cosmetics, it’s important to analyze how diverse scientific disciplines are being brought together to drive industry-wide change.

Over the past several months, we’ve been immersing ourselves in the molecular research, the material application, and the product outcome of “green chemistry”. Along the way, we’ve been collaborating with leading scientists and research organizations to go deep into the detail.

It’s a process that’s included heading out to Amsterdam for In-Cosmetics Global, joining their review panel for their Rising Star Award, and contributing to client whitepapers. We’ve also hosted a podcast featuring Dr. Barbara Brockway, who’s an esteemed figure in the field (you can listen to it on Spotify). Our findings consistently reveal that the shift towards sustainability in cosmetic products is not a fleeting trend, but rather an accelerating transformation based on robust chemical and material science principles.

This article examines the increasing importance of sustainable practices in the beauty sector, featuring case studies from three businesses that are directly contributing to “green chemistry” innovations within cosmetic science.

Image courtesy of The Green Chemist.

Drivers of Sustainability in the Cosmetics Industry

The growing adoption of sustainable practices within the cosmetics industry is significantly influenced by shifts in consumer behavior, marked by increasing public awareness of the ethical and environmental implications of product formulation and sourcing. This heightened awareness has led to meaningful changes in purchasing decisions.

Specifically, consumers are demonstrating increased scrutiny of cosmetic ingredient lists, resulting in a preference for natural, nature-inspired alternatives to traditional petrochemical-based ingredients and microplastics.

These preferences are driven by concerns regarding potential health risks associated with specific chemical compounds and a desire to mitigate the environmental impact of the industry. As a result, transparency in ingredient sourcing, manufacturing processes, and product composition are now critical factors in consumer choice, as evidenced by the increased demand for material provenance information, compositional data, and lifecycle assessment analyses.

Trailblazers in Sustainable Cosmetics

Innovation within sustainable beauty is driven by emerging technologies and scientific advancements. Here are three companies that have had - and are having - a tangible impact on the progression of sustainability in cosmetics:

 The Body Shop 

Since its founding by Dame Anita Roddick in 1976, The Body Shop has been a pioneering force in plant-powered cosmetics and sustainable practices, becoming synonymous with locally sourced materials. This commitment to environmental responsibility led to, for instance, their development of the Hemp Range in the late 1990s, a detail shared by Dr. Barbara Brockway during our conversation and on the ConsultaChem podcast (you can listen to it on Spotify). She revealed that the hemp line received EU farming subsidies due to its environmental advantages, such as sequestering carbon dioxide, improving soil health, not requiring pesticides, and needing minimal water.

While historically hemp was utilized primarily as fertilizer, The Body Shop's research team identified a valuable component within Cannabis sativa seeds. Through meticulous analysis, they discovered that cold-pressed hemp seed oil contains a significant concentration of omega-6 and omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, which are known to have beneficial effects on skin barrier function.

Keracol

A newer industry player is Keracol. It’s a spin-out from the University of Leeds that focuses on extracting and refining natural materials from waste streams - with a strong emphasis on green chemistry practices. 

Founded by Prof. Chris Rayner and Prof. Richard Blackburn, the company develops processes like solvent recycling and methods to reduce water usage. By extracting active compounds from plant waste, Keracol creates ingredients and formulates products for cosmetics, textiles, and nutraceuticals. According to Prof. Blackburn, “Keracol’s emphasis is on the development and use of ingredients from sustainable sources through research into new ingredients or technologies, both for Keracaol and other brands.” Green chemistry principles guide every step of their manufacturing, including the use of green solvents and limitations on water use. While their “Dr Craft” product line is currently discontinued, new sustainable products are anticipated for launch in late 2025 or early 2026.

Boreal Bioproducts

Boreal Bioproducts, based in Finland, specializes in transforming wood processing side-streams, such as bark, sawdust, and woodchips, into valuable materials for various industries. They utilize their Pressurized Hot Water Extraction method to create proprietary compounds, notably SpruceSugar and SpruceLingo.

• SpruceSugar, derived from extracts of Norway spruce (Picea abies) sawdust, is a hemicellulose-rich, bio-based polysaccharide. This award-winning ingredient possesses biodegradable, water-soluble, and UV-absorbing properties, making it attractive for cosmetics. Ole Hyvä, a natural personal care company, utilized SpruceSugar for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin health-supporting properties through hyaluronic acid synthesis activation.

• SpruceLigno, derived from native lignin extract, is intended to be used for its UV-absorbing properties and is currently featured for sun-care product formulations.

Antti Kämäräinen of Boreal Bioproducts shared that the company is also developing SpruceSugar formulations for diverse applications, including bio-based latexes and barriers for paper and board packaging.

Ultimately, Boreal's work illustrates how scientific advancements not only benefit the cosmetics industry but also contribute to broader sustainability practices across multiple sectors.

The Future of Nature-Inspired Beauty

The growing field of sustainably manufactured cosmetics shows how advanced chemical methodologies can be applied - practically - to consumer-facing products. As consumer awareness increases, so does the demand for rigorous scientific backing and transparent processes. This article has highlighted examples where innovation in plant-derived materials and green chemistry is crucial for future sustainability efforts, demonstrating the vital role academic chemists play in this evolution.

The past month has proved to us how much investment and innovation is happening at lab level. We believe that this is important work that deserves to be understood and shared. After all, consumers want transparency - and that extends to knowing who’s driving the changes that they want to see in the world. It doesn’t matter if you’re a CRO or a manufacturer, your value should be recognized! If you have processes or products and you want support with technical marketing content, or even a strategic communications plan, please get in touch.